JEWELLERY BY CARTIER – Auction 10 June

Cartier has been associated with the jewellery of haute joaillerie as well as luxury watches ever since the company was founded in Paris by Louis-François Cartier in 1847.

CARTIER – King of Jewellers

The first Cartier dépendance opened its doors in London’s New Burlington Street as far back as 1902. Described by Edward VII as the “jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers”, this traditional Parisian company quickly became one of the premier addresses for royal jewellery orders in London, too. King Edward VII, who had previously travelled to Paris regularly to have his jewellery dreams made a reality by Cartier when he was Prince of Wales, is regarded as one of the firm’s most important clients. Ahead of the coronation ceremony in 1904, numerous commissions from his guests followed, and Cartier became the official royal outfitter that same year.  This distinction was followed by corresponding decrees from many other European dynasties. In 1909, the Cartier boutique moved to New Bond Street.

The success story of the House of Cartier remained closely linked to the development of the British Royal Family.

CARTIER TIARA

George VI’s coronation in 1937 saw Cartier receive a series of 27 orders for tiaras in the run-up to it, triggering a bona fide tiara boom.

This aquamarine and diamond tiara is in the style of a “halo tiara”: the aquamarines, some of which boast imaginative cuts, are combined with the geometrically arranged settings to form rays pointing vertically upwards, which are reminiscent of a halo.

An Art Deco Aquamarine Diadem by Cartier, platinum 950, diamonds total weight c. 4 ct, aquamarines total weight c. 70 ct, €34,000 - 70,000
An Art Deco Aquamarine Diadem by Cartier, platinum 950, diamonds total weight c. 4 ct, aquamarines total weight c. 70 ct, €34,000 - 70,000

Cartier pendant watch

Lot 225, also from the 1930s, a very rare pendant watch by Cartier decorated with a tear-shaped 2.20 ct diamond, is coming up for auction. The lever movement of this watch carries the number 20696 and is signed European Watch & Clock Co. The case number 12648 shows the manufacturer’s brand Edmond Jaeger. The collaboration between Edmond Jaeger and Cartier dates back to 1907 and led to the foundation of the joint company European Watch & Clock Company Inc. in the 1920s.

A rare diamond pendant watch by Cartier total weight c. 6.50 ct, €40,000 - 60,000
A rare diamond pendant watch by Cartier total weight c. 6.50 ct, €40,000 - 60,000

Cartier ladies’ wristwatch

With the development of Calibre 101, which is undoubtedly one of the masterpieces of the European Watch & Clock Co, the smallest mechanical movement in the world was launched.

This movement, which weighs just under one gram, was only  used in exceptional jewellery watches, such as the fascinating ladies’ wristwatch offered as lot 226, but is also found in the watch worn by Queen Elizabeth II at her coronation in 1953. The jewellery-like character of this exceptional watch with over 10 ct diamonds is underlined by the cut diamond watch glass.

A diamond watch by Cartier, total weight c. 11 ct, €20,000 - 40,000
A diamond watch by Cartier, total weight c. 11 ct, €20,000 - 40,000

In addition to these three outstanding jewels, the jewellery auction on 10 June 2020 will offer a total of more than 320 precious objects from different eras and of international origin – more than 20 pieces from Cartier alone.

JEWELLERY AUCTION
10 June 2020, 11 am
Palais Dorotheum

CONTACT
Astrid Fialka-Herics
+43-1-515 60-567
astrid.fialka@dorotheum.at

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