Along the Thames, past markets, cafés, museums and art spaces: Martina Batovic, Head of Dorotheum’s London branch and ardent Londoner-by-choice, gives a tour of her favourite places in the old and new parts of the city.
Like many people in London, I wasn’t born in the city. And yet, having lived here for more than a decade, I am a Londoner, and this is my city. London has an incredible ability to embrace and bring out the best in people. It is therefore unsurprising that it has been at the forefront of trends and history for such a long time now.
Walking around the city, it is impossible to ignore the depth of its past and tradition, as well as its incredibly vibrant atmosphere and pulsating energy. With the commerce focused east of the City of London, the West End has traditionally been more culture- and society-focused.
Dorotheum’s beautiful office is in the heart of St James’s, a stone’s throw away from Buckingham Palace, St James’s Palace, the stunning Green Park and St James’s Park. Every morning on my way to the office I walk past the many traditional bespoke tailor shops that have made this area famous and so special, and past Dukes Hotel, which is famed for its bar and the best martinis in town. From my office I overlook gorgeous architecture and the fabulous Spencer House. Although we are in one of the world’s biggest and busiest cities, our street has the quietness of an English village.
Cultural institutions and quiet places
Londoners are proud of knowing the ins and outs of their city, and exploring new places to eat that are off the beaten track is always high on my list. Day to day, the Crown Passage in St James’s and Avery Row off Bond Street (where Everbean café serves the best lemon drizzle cake in town!) never disappoint.
Around the corner from the office is one of my favourite institutions, the Royal Academy of Arts. It was established in 1768 by artists and for artists, and has remained independent and followed its principles to this day. Its recently refurbished Academicians’ Room (1) is a perfect place for quiet conversations with clients: you will find yourself surrounded by artworks of Royal Academicians which change regularly, and often by artists themselves!
The room itself dates back to 1883. When refurbishing the interior, the Martin Brudnizki Design Studio left the beautiful old red panelled walls untouched – you can still see the pin holes where artists used to exhibit their drawings.
On the second floor, next to the Sackler Wing, is the Royal Academy’s best-kept secret, the “Tondo Taddei” (2), Michelangelo’s only marble sculpture in Britain. This is one of my favourite places in London; whenever I have a moment to spare, I sneak up to see it. Because it is not displayed in an obvious spot, it always feels like it is there just for me.
Sweet moments
Walking past the Royal Academy, it is difficult to resist the delicious macaroons at the Ladurée store on Piccadilly, a gilded cave full of little treasures, and with Fortnum and Mason opposite we are spoilt for choice when it comes to delicacies in this part of London. Very close is Dover Street Market, an original concept design store founded in 2004 in Dover Street, where it stayed until recently when it moved to its current location on Haymarket Street; I love the atmosphere of beautiful chaos inside it.
Rose Bakery (3) is the perfect place for a deliciously healthy lunch or tea and coffee: I particularly like the juxtaposition of the industrial interior and the warmth of the food and products on offer. Another hidden gem close by is Liberty, one of the most iconic department stores in the country, founded 141 years ago. Its aim has always been to change the look of homewares and fashion, and Oscar Wilde’s famous quote that “Liberty is the chosen resort of the artistic shopper” still holds true today.
The pace in London is relentless; a long working day can be rounded off with a nice drink in the evening. My favourites are the Bar at Claridge’s (4), the stunning Art Deco luxury hotel in Mayfair, and the Scarfes Bar at the Rosewood Hotel in Holborn – they never fail to deliver on fantastic drinks and a relaxed atmosphere of understated luxury.
Art and culture
When it comes to art and culture, London is hard to beat. One of my favorite venues is the Royal Albert Hall. I love the traditional atmosphere of the concert hall and the incredible ability of its iconic architecture to adapt to different types of music performed inside.
Nearby in South Kensington is the National Art Library (5), the largest resource of art reference books in London and by far the most beautiful library to use, housed in the stunning courtyard of the Victoria and Albert Museum. It never fails to impress me, and any research that has to be done is definitely made easier in such a beautiful environment. Not to mention the temptation to see all the art and incredible exhibitions on view when you walk through the museum on your way to the library!
Traditional markets – modern restaurants
One of the things that I love most about London is its inclusiveness, and I think few cities combine the old and the new quite as well as London. Take the beautiful traditional parts of the East End and its markets: the Smithfield meat market is one of the largest wholesale meat markets in Europe, and there has been a livestock market on the site for over 800 years; or the Old Spitalfields Market, dating back to 1887 and today a modern shopping destination.
You can really sense the clash of the new city eating into the brick fibre of the old city in this part of London. Not too far away is the charming Columbia Road with its Sunday flower market – you better bring your best haggling skills as the flowers on show are incredible and the sellers ruthless!
London meanders around the river Thames and the many canals and green spaces.
Various Royal Gardens adorn the city north of the river, and large open space commons allow South Londoners to breathe. If you are walking through Holland Park, I would certainly recommend visiting the beautiful Kyoto Garden, which offers a perfect spot for a moment of tranquillity and contemplation.
If you are south of the river, then Richmond Park and its wild roaming deer are a must. I live by the river not too far from Richmond Park, and life here definitely feels remote from the hustle and bustle of the city. Not everything interesting is specific to central London. One of London’s loveliest restaurants, Petersham Nurseries (6), is in this part of town.
City walks
River walks in the centre are most interesting along the South Bank. As you walk from the London Eye past the Hayward Gallery and further down towards London Bridge, it is striking to catch sight of the Shard: designed by Renzo Piano and inaugurated early in 2013, Europe’s tallest building offers some of the most dramatic views of London, as it ruthlessly towers over the quirky stalls of the very traditional Borough Market (7).
Further down the river is the replica of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre, and if you are a fan of his work, theatre performances in this atmosphere are second to none.
The river then meanders down to Tate Modern and its new Switch House extension, which opened in June of this year and adds to London’s incomparable arts and museum scene. As the river flows east towards its estuary, the Old Royal Naval College is located on the banks of Greenwich, offering spectacular views of the Royal Observatory, where the Prime Meridian is marked.
Few cities are as iconic as London, from the black cabs to red double decker buses, Big Ben and London Eye to the red phone boxes (designed by Giles Gilbert Scott and directly influenced by the shape of the tomb of Sir John Soane’s mausoleum in the churchyard of Old St Pancras) and the ubiquitous Underground signs. The real beauty of London is that it is a gift that keeps on giving – the more you look the more you will discover: whether
you’re a foodie or music enthusiast, sporty or artistic – the global influence of this incredible city is truly unique, and I am proud to call it my home.
Martina Batovic is Head of the Dorotheum branch in London
