Diamond Style: The History of Diamond Jewellery

Diamonds have fascinated us for thousands of years. They are celebrated as the hardest natural material and prized as a symbol of luxury, power and romantic attachment. The lustre and rarity of diamonds have made them the most coveted of gemstones and their history spans cultures, continents and epochs. The evolution of diamond jewellery is intertwined with economic, technological and social developments throughout the centuries.

The beginnings and classical antiquity

The first known diamonds were found in India more than 3,000 years ago. These rare and precious stones are mentioned as early as the writing of the ancient Sanskrit texts. At the time, they were prized, not only as jewellery, but also as talismans, believed to possess supernatural powers. Because of their extraordinary hardness and light-dispersing properties, diamonds were venerated as symbols of the divine and were frequently worked into religious artefacts. In classical antiquity, Indian diamonds reached Europe and the Roman Empire via the early trade routes. The Romans valued diamonds not only for their beauty but also for their invulnerability and indestructibility and the regarded them as a symbol of strength and power. Many Roman rulers wore diamonds on their armour or crown despite the fact that diamonds of this era were still uncut and tended to be rough in appearance.

The Middle Ages: diamonds of the kings

During the Middle Ages, diamonds were a highly prized status symbol of the rich and powerful. Since techniques for working the gemstones still did not exist, they were often set in their natural crystal form in gold and silver. Kings and aristocrats wore diamonds as sign of their sovereignty and authority. One of the most famous diamonds of the Middle Ages was the legendary Indian “Koh-i-Noor” which was discovered in the 14th century. It changed hands many times throughout the centuries, its owners including several Indian princes, Persian rulers and latterly the British royal family.

Renaissance: the art of diamond cutting is born

An important step forward in the history of diamond jewellery was taken in the Renaissance with the first documented cutting of a diamond in around 1450 in Venice. The practice of cutting diamonds in order to maximise their brilliance developed thereafter. The so-called “table cut” was one of the first attempts to accentuate the natural “fire” of the gemstone. As technical progress in shaping the stones advanced, diamonds were increasingly integrated into pieces of jewellery. The aristocracy and wealthy merchant class adorned themselves with elaborately designed diamond rings, brooches and pendants.

Baroque and Rococo: the heyday of diamond jewellery

In the 17th and 18th centuries, especially during the Baroque and Rococo eras, diamond jewellery scaled new heights of artistic and technical perfection. Cuts such as the “rose cut” and the “briolette cut” were developed in the quest to reflect the light ever more brilliantly.

19th century: discovery of new diamond mines

An important turning point in the history of diamond jewellery came with the discovery of extensive diamond deposits in South Africa in 1867. This led to a huge increase in the availability of diamonds and made the precious stones affordable for the affluent middle class. The design of diamond jewellery was often inspired by romantic symbols such as hearts, flowers and stars. Diamonds were particularly popular during the 19th century. The innovations of the industrial revolution led to the introduction of new cutting techniques and ever greater precision in the finishing process.

20th century: the rise of the brilliant cut

The modern “brilliant cut” developed by Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919 revolutionised the diamond industry. This cut maximised light reflection and made the diamonds more brilliant than ever. In the 1950’s, diamond jewellery enjoyed a further flourishing in part as a result of the famous De Beers advertising campaign which coined the slogan “A Diamond is Forever”, launched in 1948. Thanks to this catchy phrase, diamonds became a symbolic essential for betrothals and weddings thereon in. In the 20th century, diamond jewellery was increasingly evident in Hollywood films, which yet again reinforced its status as a luxury symbol. Famous actresses such as Marilyn Monroe played a major part in enhancing the aura of diamonds as the quintessence of glamour.

Modern trend: pre-loved

Today, diamond jewellery continues to be a cherished luxury asset. These days ethical background and sustainability are becoming more and more important in public awareness. The motto of the hour is “pre-loved”. Dorotheum has been committed to sustainability since 1707. In our major Jewellery auction to be held on 22 May, we are delighted to offer a fascinating selection of diamond jewellery from different epochs. Diamonds have never lost their allure, and there’s one thing we can be sure of: a diamond is forever!